Enjoy! Thanks again to JHendrix for the cool idea. | |
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Cut two lengths of wire about 6 feet long. Strip and Tin both ends of each length. |
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Solder the one end of each wire to the switch. If you have more than two tabs on the switch, you got the wrong kind. One wire per tab. |
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Remove your PCB from your cab, and locate the DIP switches. We are going to be working with the #8 switch only. Turn your PCB upside down with the DIP switch facing you. The #8 switch is now the switch furthest to the left. |
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This is the tricky part, but it's not as bad as you might think. Find the two pins directly under the #8 switch. You are going to solder one wire to each pin just like the picture. Again, it does not matter which wire goes where. Be sure you have tined the wires, and it seems to work best to have a fair amount of solder on the tip of the iron. Hold the wire on the pin and touch both with the iron. The solder should flow onto the wire and the pin. Take the iron away, and you should be all set. |
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Now use zip ties to route the wire around the board so it comes out in the front right corner. |
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Now we are going to add a set of molex connectors so we will be able to disconnect the switch if we need to pull the PCB at any time. Snip the wires about 6" in front of the PCB |
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Strip the ends of both sets of wires. On one set of wires crimp the two male molex pins, on the other set crimp the female pins. If you have not used one of these crimpers, there are two tabs on the pins. Lay the stripped wire on the pin so that the stripped part is lined up with the smaller tabs and the end of the wire casing is lined up with the bigger tab. Crimp the bigger tab first in the slot of the crimpers marked "A". |
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Then crimp the smaller tabs with the slot marked "B" |
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Push the two wires on each side into the molex connectors. Be sure you have the male pins in the male connector and the female pins in the female connector. Study it for a minute before you push the wires in to be sure you have it right. |
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This is what it should look like at this point. |
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And this is it all connected. Take the PCB and your new switch wiring and mount the PCB back in the cabinet. |
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On your control panel you should have a hole in the upper right hand corner above the player 2 controls. Take the bolt out. This is where our pause button is going to go. If you want to mount it somewhere else, feel free. I like this idea because it requires no drilling. |
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Slide the switch in the hole from the under side and put the nut on the switch from the top side. Close it up. |
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Woot! How sweet is that? Now when you want to go get a Root Beer while playing Metal Slug, just flip the switch and off you go. The game will stay just where you left it. The cool part is that on alot of games, the sound will continue as will some of the graphics. Also, you can use the pause at the Continue screen. Just flip it and come back later to continue the game. As a note, when you power the game up, if all you get is a blank screen, the button is flipped to pause. Don't let it freak you out. |